Mei Elander, International Development and Globalization, 2nd year
Country of fieldwork: Malawi
Canadian NGO: WUSC
Local NGO: Kwathu Ndi Kwanu
Position: Communications and Inclusion Officer
I find myself grappling with how best to capture the nuances and details of the beautiful and complex country of Malawi. My short time here has been a whirlwind of experiences, lessons, and self-reflection. Thus far, my stay has been incredibly rewarding, and it is difficult to write everything down in one blog post to do justice to the challenges and richness that is Malawi.
Malawi is often cited as one of the poorest countries in Africa and the world, with glaring problems with infrastructure, sustainability, and gender equality. Malawi has one of the highest rates of child marriages in the world, and gender-based violence is a persistent challenge. The organization Kwathu Ndi Kwanu, where I volunteer, helps women who have faced gender-based violence reclaim power through workshops in finance and digital literacy, savings and loans, and crafts-making. These activities create increased financial stability by providing a source of income for the women and moving them away from the inconsistent odd jobs they often rely on.
Working in the gender sector has allowed me to see the gap for myself. It has allowed me to see the individuals behind the statistics and hear each of their stories. It can be easy to become desensitized to the statistics as each woman becomes another number when reading that 34% of Malawian women have experienced physical or sexual violence or 1 in 5 girls are sexually abused before they turn 18. However, sitting face-to-face with the individuals whose lives these statistics represent makes the numbers human. At the Dzaleka refugee camp, I listened to women recount their tales of sexual violence and harassment they’ve faced from their husbands and men in the villages. These personal stories bring statistics to life and highlight the urgent need for change.
Corruption is another challenge Malawia faces. Corruption is evident from members of parliament down to the traffic police. On busy roads, there can be checkpoints as often as every kilometre. The police conduct stops, which, in theory, are random but are more often targeted stops to find people most likely to be caught breaking the law. Buses are often pulled over as they are the easiest targets to be caught breaking the law. I've seen bus drivers slip money to traffic police to avoid fines or to speed up the process. I've learned that sometimes renting a more expensive-looking car can grant you passage through these tedious checkpoints.
While Malawi faces significant challenges, it does not define the country. Despite its many issues, Malawi is a place of beauty and resilience. It is a place where love and community grow despite its problems. The term "developing" is often used to describe countries like Malawi, but it overlooks the whole picture. What does it truly mean to be developed? Is it merely economic metrics and living standards, or is there more to it? During my time here, I've grown to see that every country is developing in its own way.
In many places, Malawi exemplifies sustainable practices lacking in "developed" nations. Here, glass bottles for sodas are reused, which is both cheaper and more sustainable. Malawians use every part of the animal from the head to the foot, minimizing the food waste often found in more developed countries. Farming practices are also more sustainable compared to agribusiness in Canada. I took a tour of a coffee plantation where banana trees grow alongside coffee to create a natural pest deterrent. Banana tree plants are used as a diversion from the coffee plant as insects choose to eat the softer flesh of the trees. I learned that this kind of organic farming is common but often goes unrecognized due to the lack of formal certification. Animal farming is more ethical in Malawi than in Canada or the United States. My friend commented how he would much rather be a cow in Malawi than in the States. Animals are not confined to the walls of a barn or coup where they are packed together in tiny cells, seldom seeing sunlight. Here, the livestock roam free in pastures, and chickens run around the town. At the WUSC office, I often see chickens walking around the building, and whilst running, I almost tripped over a family of chickens crossing the road.
However, the highlight of my experience is the richness of the culture. Malawi may be one of the poorest countries, but it is rich in many other ways. Despite the economic challenges, the sense of community is strong and vibrant. Malawi, often nicknamed "the Warm Heart of Africa" is known for its friendly and welcoming nature. Everywhere I have gone, I have been met with hospitality and warmth. On the streets, I'm constantly greeted by people in English or Chichewa, the local language. If I wave, they'll smile and wave back. During my morning runs, children will often run alongside me, grinning from ear-to-ear, pumping their arms and running as fast as their little legs can carry them before tiring and yelling "Tionana" (see you later). Oftentimes, children shout “Azungu” (white person) as I pass, running up to me, waving, and smiling. It seems like everyone is one large connected community here. I've often contrasted this to Canada, where one would most likely garner a strange look after waving to a stranger or greeting them.
It is also the helpful nature of people that makes Malawi so special. A couple of my friends and I were trying to find a way back from Lake Malawi and weren't sure where to find transportation. A man at one of the market stalls kindly called his friend who owned a motorbike and made two other calls to get us three motorbikes. I was travelling in a different direction than my friends, and the man explained where I would be dropped off to find a bus. Once there, his friend waited until I got a bus before leaving. These small gestures are a testament to the strong community that characterizes Malawian society.
The informal markets are a chaotic wonder that I enjoy every time I go. Lean-to stalls are cobbled together with tin and sticks. The air is foggy with smoke from the grills that hold potatoes, beef, pork, and fish. Chips sizzle in oil, the smell wafting through the air. People shout at you from all different directions, yelling: "good price,” "sister, come look,” "fresh tomatoes,” "only 5,000 kwacha." Vendors often come up with the fruit or veggie they’re selling and shove it in your face. The market is overwhelming with the smells, sounds, and sights. All types of fruits, veggies, spices, and clothes are sold from stalls. Onions and tomatoes are piled precariously on top of one another, so high you wonder if they might topple over with the wind. Avocados that are the size of small cantaloupes cover the stall. All the colours seem brighter, as if someone turned up the saturation on a picture. It is organized mayhem, but there is the same underlying feeling of community. Yes, it is tumultuous, but I much prefer it to a giant supermarket with elevator music and mechanical beeps as items are scanned. A few times, the women I have bought from have given me an extra tomato or onion, smiling at me as they do so. Small gestures like this are something that can never be replaced in a grocery store. This is similar to vendors on the street. The interaction and human connection are irreplaceable, particularly considering that you support a person's livelihood.
The craftsmanship here, particularly the woodworking, is so delicate and intricately designed. I admire the skills it takes to carefully carve small wooden cars, bikes, and planes. The beaded earrings and necklaces made from bamboo and seeds are made with such skill and craftsmanship, sold for a fraction of their worth. Tailors here are also incredibly talented. My friend showed a tailor a picture of a purse she was looking for, and after a glance without any measurements, he replied that he could make it within the hour. The next day, we arrived and saw an almost identical bag waiting for us. There is so much talent that is underappreciated and undervalued. I am in awe of the unique hand-made items in the informal markets that make Malawi so special.
Another time, while my friend and I were walking around trying to kill time, we caught a dance class in session. The groups ranged from the ages of about 6 years old to their early 20s. Each group performed for us, dancing confidently and singing boldly. The younger ones all had chitenje around their waists and created a whirlwind of bright, clashing colours. Their young voices rang out confidently, singing words I didn't understand but found beautiful regardless. The older men danced to the beating of the drums, moving with grace and ease. What most captured my attention, though, was the pure joy on everyone’s face, particularly the younger ones, as they shook their hands and moved their feet.
I experienced another performance at a restaurant lodge where I was staying. A group of boys came up with makeshift drums and other instruments. They began to sing, albeit a little poorly, but with such gusto and confidence. They went through "The Lion Sleeps Tonight" to "Who Let the Dogs Out." It was off-key and a little rocky, yet it was sung with so much passion I couldn't help but laugh and sing along. The young boys' nimble feet danced across the dirt as they shook their shoulders and hips to the beat.
Then there are the smaller things like chickens being carried upside-down by their feet or people selling cooked mice on a skewer in the street. I love how conveniently I can find fruit or veggies, usually within a kilometer radius of wherever I might be. The women artfully balance platters on their heads that are stacked high with fruit. I've tasted some of the most incredible and flavourful dishes here. Their staple Nsima, a very thick type of porridge that can be rolled and eaten with meat and veggies, is hearty and delicious. I've eaten some of the best fish here, grilled in a little lean-to kitchen. I've been to a night market and seen rows of stalls lined up, cooking strips of beef, pieces of pork, liver, and intestine. It was a bustling place, similar to the markets, the air full of greasy potatoes and salted meat. I've eaten greasy samosas, fried plantain, banana fritters, and tasted fresh mandasi, a fried dough that is a dark golden brown, fluffy on the inside with a hint of sweetness. The flavours here are rich and leave you feeling full and satisfied.
It is these small, diverse things that make life here so vibrant and bustling. While I am a foreigner coming from a much different culture, I am still in wonder of Malawi even after almost 2 months of living here. For the first week, I didn't understand how people could live here a year, let alone 3 months and yearned to be back in Canada. I've quickly come to love Malawi and now wish for more time here. It is easy to see countries like Malawi as impoverished and in need of aid, but there is so much more to it. It is a country filled with generous people, bustling markets, and delicious food. It is impossible to write every detail of my journey here without it becoming long and onerous, but I hope that by writing about my experience, I can share a piece of Malawi and all it has to offer. I hope it creates a more complete image of Malawi, making it more than a "developing country" in the eyes of the West. I have grown so much here, and Malawi will always hold a special place in my heart.